Day 9: Driving Northwest bridging the cities from Yerevan to Gyumri
Matenadaran, Saghmosavank, Hovhannavank, Talin, Hogevank, Yot Verk, Gyumri City Hall, Mother Armenia, Sev berd
Yerevan, Saghmosavan, Ohanavan, Talin, Maralik, Gyumri
Thereby I, in Yerevan, having spent unforgettable days till then, had to leave that inherent city with great sorrow. However, before I left the town, I needed to complete my calendar by visiting a must see ancient museum called Matenadaran. Thus, right after I did my checkout from the hostel, I began driving north to get to my destination.
There stayed the glorious Matenadaran right in front of me. Venerable scholars from Armenian history were carved on the front wall and were welcoming the curious guests.
Matenadaran
As soon as I ducked my head inside the museum, it felt like being delegated as an intercultural envoy to the archaic period.
Matenadaran
Not so of Greek based the manuscripts though, however, the whole collection possess traces of ancient Armenian records, handwritings, and scripts. The vast collection consists of antediluvian names hidden in the pages of manuscripts, silver cladded gospels, musical notes of greatest composers of their era, historical documents in numerous languages and writings of medieval historians on subjects such as philosophy, grammar, art history, medicine, theology and art.
Matenadaran
Matenadaran
Matenadaran
Matenadaran
All the items of the massive collection were neatly kept and archived to be displayed under glazed panels.
Matenadaran
I highly recommend checking the operating hours via its official website before visiting the museum not to stay outside.
At around noontime I left the museum and drove off the capital for the last time, knowing that, there wouldn’t be return to the charming city Yerevan anymore.
The latter destination was a monastery called Saghmosavank, with an hour drive away Yerevan. The Saghmosavank monastery was eponymously named after the small village Saghmosavan. This modest suburb was situated at the northwest of Yerevan.
I was captivated by the ingenuity of village road, which led me to the monastery.
Saghmosavan Road
Having had the great taste of driving through peaceful nature, I finally reached my destination address.
Monastery’s silhouette from distant was pretty inviting as I captured a beautiful moment with my camera in advance.
Saghmosavank
Getting closer to the Monastery step by step, helped me reveal the hidden mystery of the ancient complex.
Saghmosavank
Saghmosavank
Saghmosavank
The interior frame of Saghmosavank was as unique as its intriguing exterior. Column layout and the general plan of the monastery was brilliantly designed and put together.
Saghmosavank
Saghmosavank
Saghmosavank
Saghmosavank
Saghmosavank
If you are interested in legendary stories, you may follow the link to learn some secrets about one of the powerful and violent rulers of the world Tamerlane.
Having accomplished my visit to a breathtaking monastery, I headed to another one.
On the way between two monasteries, I felt the urge to stop and take pictures of the incredible canyon I came across.
Saghmosavan
Saghmosavan
Beyond any doubt, this second picture will stay in my archive as one of my best shots ever.
Advancing my daily plan, next stop was also going to be an amazing monastery.
Hovhannavank Monastery was constructed on the very edge of a cliff. The holy building stands on the boundary of the Kasagh River canyon.
Hovhannavank
Hovhannavank
Hovhannavank
Not only the outer view of the monastery was tempting, but also the interior form.
Especially, I was perked up with great interest to the column-beam layout and to the frame details.
Hovhannavank
On the other hand, the walls of Hovhannavank were fulfilled with lapidary inscriptions. At one of the texts engraved was written:
"...By the grace of merciful God, during the reign of Queen Tamar, daughter of the great Gevorg, in the year 642 (1200 AD) of the race of Torgom, we—brothers Zakaria and Ivane—sons of Sargis the Great, son of Avag Zakarian, when the light of God’s grace rose and entered Armenia and raised us from weakness in the battle against the enemies of Christ and destroyed their power and quenched their violence, with the country of Ararat delivered from the heavy yoke of their servitude, wished to make offering and gave the tribute of the grace to the Holy Forerunner of Hovhannavank ..."
Hovhannavank
There was a small-scale chapel attached to the main building. It seemed old and ruined but the atmosphere inside was extremely divine.
Hovhannavank
Hovhannavank
It was about 3 o’clock when I got on my car to drive to another outstanding Monastery in the middle of nowhere, close to the village Maralik.
By the way, passing over the city Talin, I saw the ruins of the cathedral of Talin. Not only because I’ve become a lazy photographer, just to minimalize the time spent on taking pictures, pulled over, contented myself taking a single snapshot from a decent distance, and left the remnants on his own.
Talin Cathedral
So, having accomplished a quick view of Talin Cathedral, I continued driving to my main target, Hogevank, which was perched at the intersection of endless valleys.
Going around the monastery, I started taking panoramic pictures of this great cathedral and nature combination.
Hogevank
Hogevank
Hogevank
Then, I stepped inside to have a look around. The most glorious part was hanging over my head. One of the windows of the dome was receiving a pure array of light that made the ambience illuminated.
Hogevank
Around fiveish I finished my photo session and drove off to Gyumri.
On the road driving along Gyumri I halted a few times at the side of the road, and shot some rustic pictures of the blessed nature intersecting my eye vision.
Gyumri Road
After a half-hour drive I reached the second biggest city of Armenia, Gyumri.
My first visit in the city was to a church called Yot Verk.
Yot Verk Surb Astvatzatzin church
The name of the church, Yot Verk, derives from the icon “The Seven Sorrows of the Blessed Virgin Mary” which was kept inside when the building was used as a chapel erected by Kamsarakan princes.
Yot Verk Surb Astvatzatzin church
Yot Verk Surb Astvatzatzin church
According to building.am web source:
“Yot Verk is the only Armenian church which has 5 different altars for various religious communities. The main altar served to the Armenian Apostolic church. Sourb Yot Verk (Holly Seven Wounds) altar was used by the Orthodox priests, and the altar of Holly Trinity by the Catholic priests. The altar of St. Sargis served to the Assyrians. There are two altars on the second floor too. If the dates of religious ceremonies coincided, the preference was given to Armenians. ”
Subsequently, right after having finished my tour at Yot Verk church, I walked to the main City Hall of Gyumri situated right beside the church.
The enormous square was named after the failed Bolshevik uprising against the Dashnak government of the First Republic of Armenia in May 1920. For that reason, the square is also known as May Uprising Square (Vartanants Square in Armenian).
Gyumri City Hall
On the Southwest border of Gyumri, there perched the Mother Armenia statue with an overlooking view of the town. I reached the statue by the late afternoon. The dignity of the monument was so catchy.
Mother Armenia Monument
Before that, I remember trying to get into the Old Russian Fortress but the guard didn’t let me in. I was told that the Fortress was not operating for visitors for more than two years.
Sev Berd, Old Black Russian Fortress
According to website barevarmania.org
“ “Black” Fortress in Gyumri was built in 1834. After the visit of Russian tsar Nikolai the First in Gyumri in 1837, the city was turned into a castle-fortress and then renamed in honor of Alexandra, wife of the tsar (Alexandropol).
The need of building a fortress became essential after the end of the second Russian-Persian war. Taking into consideration the further possible battle, Russians paid especial attention to the strengthening of Gyumri city. Huge walls, constructed of black treated basalt amaze the visitors up today. The fortress walls were so powerful, that they housed 100 cannons, and 8000 garrisons inside. The construction was built according to the latest tendencies in military art.
“Black” fortress was one of the rarest constructions in the composition of Russian Empire, during the opening ceremony of which tsar himself was present. ”
Well, after a long day’s trip driving back and forth between towns, villages and cities, I finally settled down in a conservative and warm place to spend the night. The landlady of the property welcomed me at the door with a big smile and accompanied me to my room. She then, politely asked me to join dinner when I was ready. She seemed to be a very hospitable person even though it had to be like that as the part of her business.
After taking a warm shower, I descended to the ground floor where also the garden was, sat down on a sofa, and started waiting for my dinner. The family was dining inside. I was at the courtyard waiting my for my supper. The landlady, Armine, brought delicious dishes representing Armenian cuisine. We also had a quite long chat about the evolution of the city after the collapse of Soviet Union and everyday life in Gyumri. Then, her husband arrived in the middle of our conversation. He also threw me a warm greeting smile just like his wife did. I was so grateful in this family atmosphere.
Later, I brought my computer to the dinner table and started creating my following day’s route. I needed some advice about the places I should visit so I asked some help from Armine’s husband. As he was very aware of tourism around the city, he quickly started telling where to go and what to do. According to his guidance, I formed my route and put checkmarks on my map. Whilst I was building my route plan, on the other hand, Armine was treating me like her son, bringing fruits, desserts, candies and drinks. It felt like sitting at my mother’s dinner table. After concluding my route plan, I said good night and headed to my room to rest. Once again, end of a tiring but perfect day…